- Repair Scratches in Glass
Repair Scratches in Glass
Often the difference between just an “OK” restoration and one that is outstanding can be the condition of the glass. Fortunately, Eastwood has a solution in the form of the Pro Glass Polishing Kit for Deep Scratches and the standard Pro Glass Polishing Kit.
The Deep-Scratch Kit is designed to remove deep surface scratches from auto glass. Generally, if you can feel it with your fingernail, this kit is for you. (For “wiper haze” or general polishing, use the standard Pro Glass Polishing Kit.) Pitted glass or glass with a “sandblasted” appearance is usually beyond the ability of these kits, since the amount of glass needed to be removed would most certainly create a “wavy” surface on the glass, and optical distortion.
In terms of difficulty, this Deep-Scratch Kit ranks among our highest. I've always advised folks to “back into the damage”...that is, always use the mildest pad first, check for results, then go to the next aggressive pad if needed to remove the blemish. Once the initial blemish is removed, work back out using each successively milder pad, then finally, the polishing kit.
- You'll need plenty of water. It makes a real mess but the pads and glass MUST be kept wet at all times or permanent glass damage and rapid pad wear will occur.
- It also takes a great deal of time, patience and repeated episodes of “dry it and check your work”. This is a job that realistically could take hours, even all day, to complete.
- With the polishing pad, the felt needs to be soaked in water for about an hour prior to use, the powdered compound needs to be mixed with water to the consistency of toothpaste or cake icing, and it also needs to be kept wet. Yes, it does make one hell of a mess as well.
- 1. Thoroughly wash glass to be repaired.
- 2. Remove trim as necessary to gain access to entire damaged area.
- 3. Mask surrounding area to minimize clean up.
- 4. Put on a dust mask. NOTE: A large amount of silica dust is generated in this process. The use of a properly fitted dust mast is a must to avoid silicosis!
- 5. Attach Hookit™ backing to center of 4” - 5” backing pad on your air powered sander.
- Never ever use a tool exceeding 2500 rpm or permanent glass damage will occur.
- 6. Assess depth of scratch. Use the mildest abrasive that you think will remove the scratch. It is very difficult to avoid creating waves in the glass when using the Coarse (Green) Abrasive Disc. It’s better to start with the Medium (Blue) Abrasive and then go to the Coarse (Green) if needed. If you do need the most aggressive abrasive, use the coarse (green) pad on a DA sander, keeping it as flat to the surface as possible. Follow with the medium (blue) and fi ne (orange) on a high-speed sander (like our #31193).
- 7. Attach abrasive to Hookit™ backing pad.
- 8. Use a crayon, or tape to mark the damaged area on the reverse side of the glass.
- 9. Moisten glass and abrasive with water.
- 10. Work abrasive evenly in overlapping passes across the damaged area, keeping the disc as fl at as possible. The frosted appearance will diminish as you progress through the finer abrasives and will be beautifully clear once completed.
- 11. Keep surface wet as you recondition the glass. Use a pump spray bottle or slow running hose.
- 12. Dry surface and check progress periodically.
- 13. Once the Scratch has been removed proceed to the next finer grit abrasive eventually using the Pro Glass Polishing Kit to bring the glass up to like new clarity. Refer to the instructions on the Glass Polishing Compound.